The Secret History of
the Potato in the Wold Newton Universe.
by Andrew Brook
It is a
mistake to think you can solve any major problems just with
potatoes.
Douglas
Adams, Life, the Universe and Everything
In
recent years, the press have lamented the general public’s
ignorance of history. It has reached the stage where even the
popular old myths—Robert the Bruce and the Spider, Clarence
and the Butt of Malmsey, and so forth—are beginning to be
lost.
One
myth that I for one would be glad to see the back of is the story
that the potato was introduced to Europe by Sir Walter Raleigh.
For many years this has been the accepted truth, and generations
of schoolchildren have been taught that the potato is native to
South America. However, this is a fallacy, as modern scholarship
shows.[1]
The
earliest record of the potato in Europe may date back more than
two thousand years. Some of the illuminated illustrations to
texts of Personalities of the Gallic Wars by the
pseudo-Caesar clearly show a man in the act of peeling a bowl of
potatoes, an image famously reproduced by Albert Uderzo in Astérix
chez les bretons.[2]
For
potatoes within more recent history, we must turn to Terrance
Dicks, the man who has undertaken perhaps the most extensive
study into the life and circumstances of the Time Lord known as
the Doctor[3]. Although there has been dissent
during the last ten years as regards some of his sources[4], his research has identified the
presence of potatoes as a staple foodstuff in England during the
Middle Ages.
An
eyewitness and active participant in this matter was Sarah Jane
Smith, journalist and sometime companion of the Doctor, who
describes in her fictionalised memoir Irongron’s Star
an adventure wherein her protagonist is transported back in time
to ‘Merrie England’, where she is employed in a
Medieval kitchen peeling potatoes.
However,
it must be noted that there is every possibility that the
reference to potatoes was designed as an unflattering comparison
to the physical appearance of Linx the Sontaran, the alien whose
activities precipitated the entire affair.
One
must also consider the possibility that the potatoes were
genuinely anachronistic and that they had been brought to the
Middle Ages by the activity of a time traveller—for whom
there are two candidates to consider.
Firstly
Linx, who through manipulating the damaged drive of his spaceship
is said to have been able to jury-rig a timescoop. It is
theorised that he could have used this to bring potatoes to the
past, and this is a theme taken up by William Keith, the
translator of the surviving portions of The Ballad of Irongron,
which in his version concludes that following the alien’s
death his ‘guns and potatoes were quickly forgotten’;
however, the origins of The Ballad of Irongron are murky
and the little-known ‘three-fingered verse’ form used
in its construction is doubtful. According to the Classicist
Montalo (working somewhat outside his normal field), there are in
fact no other works known to have been composed in this format;
the ‘fingers’ are just a reference once more to
Linx’s physical form (Sontarans possessing only three on
each hand); and ultimately, the poem is a forgery.[5]
Secondly,
Chris Howarth and Steve Lyons have postulated that the potatoes
were introduced by the renegade Time Lord known as the Monk; in
either scenario, the Doctor presumably had to clear up all the
anachronisms at the end of the adventure. However, neither
time-travel based theory bears examination since both require the
cultivation and consumption of potatoes to be an innovation new
to the Mediaeval populace, yet Sarah was immediately expected to
know how to peel them.[6]
The
word ‘potato’ itself is supposedly of Carib origin,
deriving from the name of the sweet potato Ipomoea batatas.
In fact, there is no obvious connection between the two at all,
and the English names clearly indicate that the non-sweet potato
came first (otherwise the sweet potato would be called the potato
and the potato would be called the savoury potato). Rather, the
name appears to be Irish in origin (and possibly related to the
term ‘poteen’), as it was in Ireland that Sir John
Fastolfe encountered the vegetable. According to his 1459 memoirs
in the edition by Robert Nye, the young John Fastolfe was part of
the English army besieged at Kildare Castle in 1401, where he
discouraged the Irish from attacking by bombarding them with
barrels of ‘inflammatory liquid’ and where he similarly
made it ‘rain potatoes’, knowing ‘that true-born
thirsty Irishmen would be far better deterred by potations’
than by vats of boiling oil, and that ‘Your Irish peasant is
a great eater of potatoes. He will always lay down his sword and
his banshee to pick one up’—the young Fastolfe had
spotted that the vast bars of iron being hurled from the
battlements were, for the effort involved, knocking aside far too
few of the enemy.
However,
even in 1459 potatoes were still practically unknown in England
(although variant versions of the story of Chauntecleer as told
by Geoffrey Chaucer the previous century in The Canterbury
Tales are understood to mention the dish), and the various
references to potatoes and other exotic specimens provoked
comments by Fastolfe’s stepson and amuensis Stephen Scrope
to the effect that the memoirs are plain invention. Knowing that,
despite his stepfather’s stories, there is no fig tree
growing on the Cerne Abbas giant, Scrope argues that
The fig being untrue, you can take it from
me that the rest is as false as the fig.
For instance, potatoes.
What are these ‘potatoes’?
I have never heard this word. [......H]e claimed to win a battle
at Kildare by the employment of an article that does not exist. There
are no such things in this world as potatoes.
Later
on Scrope describes Fastolfe’s
usual themes - of fornications, and
taverns, and sack, and wine, and metheglins, and drinkings, and
swearings.
(What is ‘Sack’? It is
like his ‘potatoes’. It does not exist.)
How can a man claim to have spent
his life drinking a drink which does not exist?
Now,
some critics have pointed to these passages and used them to
argue that the memoirs are not only not genuine stories, but not
even genuinely Fastolfe’s words. Rather (and indeed ignoring
the evidence that the manuscript was formerly in the possession
of none other than William Shakespeare himself) they have
proposed that Robert Nye is the true author.
According
to the theory, the close references to metheglin and sack is a
direct reference to T.H. White’s (significantly
anachronistic) Arthurian novel The Sword in the Stone. In
the first chapter, there is the following exchange between Sir
Ector and Sir Grummore Grummurson; they are discussing the
former’s son, Kay, and adopted son, the Wart:
“Good port this.”
“Get it from a friend of
mine.”
“But about these boys,”
said Sir Grummore. “How many are there of them, do you
know?”
“Two,” said Sir Ector,
“counting them both, that is.”
“Couldn’t send them to
Eton, I suppose?” inquired Sir Grummore cautiously.
“Long way and all that, we know.”
Now,
when White revised the novel to form the first part of his
extended work The Once and Future King, the above exchange
continued thusly:
It was not really Eton that he
mentioned, for the College of Blessed Mary was not founded until
1440, but it was a place of the same sort. Also they were
drinking Metheglyn, not Port, but by mentioning the modern wine
it is easier to give the feel.
Sack,
the preferred drink of Sir John Fastolfe, is a fortified wine, a
sweet sherry imported to England from Spain. So too is port,
although as the name suggests it is a product of Portugal rather
than Spain. Metheglin, conversely, is another term for the
fermented honey-drink mead, which depending on how it is produced
can be sweet and can resemble table wine. Sack was commonly
available in the late 1500s, when Shakespeare portrayed Fastolfe
as ‘Sir John Falstaff’ in Henry IV Part One and
subsequent plays, and thus (critics argue) Shakespeare gave
Falstaff the characteristic of liking a certain type of drink
known to his audience but which would not have been available to
the real-life Fastolfe during the Wars of the Roses. They then
trot out the line about Raleigh and the potatoes for good
measure. The appearance of potatoes in the narrative, and the
coupling of Metheglin with Sack, are supposedly Nye’s way of
hinting to the reader that the narrative is self-consciously
fictitious.
Such
arguments have some merit. However, while I will certainly grant
that European potatoes were so rare that Scrope may not have
known anyone save Fastolfe who had ever seen or heard tell of
such a thing, I do not accept that the term ‘Sack’ is
an anachronism for the fifteenth-century. Like
‘potato’, neither the goods nor the drink would have
been much known but it strikes me as folly to say that there
cannot have been any imports of sweet wine to England by the
merchants of its oldest ally; or, indeed, to suggest that a man
of Fastolfe’s standing could not have afforded to have it
imported privately.
We
must also not ignore Scrope’s obvious mental derangement:
alongside potatoes and sack, he also denies the reality of Battle
of the Herrings, which (although absurd in character) certainly
took place and for which there is independent evidence for
Fastolfe’s role; he even tries to deny Fastolfe’s own
existence, trying to claim that his stepfather was actually the
Lollard martyr Sir John Oldcastle somehow escaped from
execution—utter nonsense, there is again independent
evidence in The Paston Letters for Fastolfe’s
existence as a man and as a man of significance and substance in
the England of the day.[7]
However,
we should not judge Scrope too harshly. Undoubtedly much of what
Fastolfe dictated to him was fantasy (particularly an old
man’s sexual fantasy). What is important is that his remarks
demonstrate that by the mid fifteenth-century, the potato was
practically extinct in western Europe.
Let
us go back now, countless thousands of years, or alternatively
forward to the early portion of the twentieth century. J.R.R.
Tolkein, in his transliterations of aeons-old Thain’s
Book, mentions potatoes several times, most notably in the
following exchange:
“Sméagol’ll get into real
true hot water, when this water boils, if he don’t do as
he’s asked,” growled Sam. “Sam’ll put his
head in it, yes precious. And I’d make him look for turnips
and carrots, and taters too, if it was the time o’ the year.
[........]”
“Sméagol won’t go, O no
precious, not this time,” hissed Gollum. “He’s
frightened, and he’s very tired, and this hobbit’s not
nice, not nice at all. Sméagol won’t grub for roots and
carrotses and—taters. What’s taters, precious, eh,
what’s taters?”
“Po—ta—toes,”
said Sam. “The Gaffer’s delight and rare good ballast
for an empty belly. But you won’t find any, so you
needn’t look. But be good Sméagol and fetch me the herbs,
and I’ll think better of you. What’s more, if you turn
over a new leaf, and keep it turned, I’ll cook you some
taters one of these days. I will: fried fish and chips served by
S. Gamgee. You couldn’t say no to that.”
“Yes, yes we could. Spoiling
nice fish, scorching it. Give me fish now, and keep nassty
chips!”[8]
Part of
Tolkein’s motivation for his scholarship was mythologising,
seeking to find a specifically British-based legend of epic
proportions. The location of Hobbiton, the home town of three of
his protagonists, is believed to be the modern city of Oxford,
and many critics have drawn parallels between what became The
Hobbit and The Lord of the Rings with the social and
political situation in England and Europe at the time he was
writing (something which Tolkein flatly denied in the
introduction to the latter). Here Tolkein is obviously making a
humorous reference to the British national dish, doubtless
building on material directly taken from his sources. However, if
we take fish and chips[9] with a pinch of salt (and vinegar,
wrapped in grease-proof paper) perhaps we must do the same with
all references to potatoes. The use of the term may be simply
Tolkein’s attempt to provide the reader with a modern
equivalent for some other vegetable, and this seems to be the
most likely explanation for the material in the following
passage:
[...] Bilbo was very polite to him [Gaffer
Gamgee, Sam’s father], calling him ‘Master
Hamfast’, and consulting him constantly upon the growing of
vegetables—in the matter of ‘roots’, especially
potatoes, the Gafffer was recognised as the leading authority by
all in the neighbourhood (including himself).”[10]
Here
Tolkein refers first to roots in general but places the word
within apostrophes, suggesting to me not that he is quoting but
drawing attention to a colloquialism or to a term he knows to be
strictly inaccurate but acceptable. He then qualifies
‘roots’ with the words ‘especially potatoes’
and it could be argued that Tolkein is qualifying the inaccuracy
rather than the actual word—that it is the potatoes which
are a strictly inaccurate but acceptable name for a similar dish.
Against
this we must balance the fact that the hobbits are depicted not
just as eating potatoes but also smoking ‘pipe-weed
or leaf, a variety probably of Nicotiana’.[11]
The potato and the tobacco-plant are related, both forming parts
of the nightshade family. Tolkien transliterates/quotes one
hobbit who stated that the
observations that I have made on my own
many journeys south have convinced me that the weed itself is not
native to our part of the world [the Shire], but came northward
[from southern parts....] whither it was, I suspect, originally
brought over the Sea by the Men of Westernesse.[12]
Whether
this speculation is the case or not (possibly an examination of
the fossil record would be instructive), a plant strongly
resembling tobacco certainly seems to have grown in what is now
Europe, which means that there is no immediate reason to think
that the potato could not have been introduced at the same time
and so as a result have been known to hobbits.[13] Note that the only mortal creature
to survive from antediluvian times to modernity, Mudface the
turtle, told the naturalist John Dolittle that many plants were
widespread throughout the world until the coming of the Flood.
So!
We may have pushed back the coming of the potato eastward across
the sea back millennia before Raleigh. Nevertheless, there is
little doubt that Raleigh did civilisation a great service by
introducing hardier varieties into England from South America. It
had not been eaten at court within at least a lifetime, if we
consider the reactions of those present at the Ceremonial Tasting
under Elizabeth I. Potatoes were to remain expensive for years to
come, while chips were condemned as a typically unEnglish sinful
self-indulgence[14]
(hence the expression popular amongst the Pilgrim Fathers,
‘French Fries’).
What
of Raleigh? As well as reintroducing the potato to the Irish, he
popularised the smoking of tobacco (brought to England by Sir
Francis Drake in 1585) amongst the court, imported the earliest
avocados to England, and probably did not try and persuade anyone
to stick burning parasitic insects up their nose.[15]
Eventually he fell out of royal favour, and in 1618 King James VI
of Scotland and I of England had Raleigh executed, belatedly
invoking a death sentence originally imposed in 1603 ‘for
being left over from the previous reign’.[16]
Bibliography.
Adams,
Douglas, Life, the Universe and Everything
Barnes,
Alan, “The Fact of Fiction - The Time Warrior”
in DWM no. 368
Brahms,
Caryl, and Simon, S.J., No Bed for Bacon
Brook,
Andrew, “A Version of Chaucer’s The Nun’s
Priest’s Tale, Sympathetic towards Russell the Fox, as
told by Himself” in English and English Literature GCSE
Coursework
Carter,
Daiana, Zozu the Robot
Curtis,
Richard et. al., “The Favourites of Queen Elizabeth I”
in Blackadder—The Whole Damn Dynasty 1485-1917
Dicks,
Terrance, The Time Warrior
Fastolfe,
Sir John, Falstaff: Being the Acta domini Johannis
Fastolfe, or Life and Valiant Deeds of Sir John Faustoff,
or The Hundred Days War, as told by Sir John Fastolfe,
K.G., to his secretaries William Worcester, Stephen Scrope,
Fr Brackley, Christopher Hanson, Luke Nanton, John Bussard, and
Peter Basset; now first transcribed, arranged and edited in
modern spelling by Robert Nye
Goscinny,
René, and Uderzo, Albert, Asterix in Belgium, trans.
Anthea Bell and Derek Hockridge
Goscinny,
René, and Uderzo, Albert, Asterix in Britain, trans.
Anthea Bell and Derek Hockridge
Goscinny,
René, and Uderzo, Albert, The Twelve Tasks of Asterix,
trans. Anthea Bell and Derek Hockridge
Hambly,
Barbara, Ishmael
ly Useless
Howarth,
Chris, and Lyons, Steve, The Complete/|Encyclopedia
(Virgin)
Keith,
William (trans.), “The Ballad of Irongron” in A
History of the Universe by Lance Parkin (Virgin)
Lloyd,
John, “Blackadder—The Untold Story” in Radio
Times (26 September—2 October 1987 issue)
Philotextus
of Chersonnese, The Athenian Murders ed. José Carlos
Somoza[17]
Pratchett,
Terry, The Last Continent
Room,
Adrian (ed.), Brewers Dictionary of Phrase and
Fable—Millennium Edition
Sellar,
W.C., and Yeatman, R.J., 1066 and All That
Sellar,
W.C., and Yeatman, R.J., Garden Rubbish
Shakespeare,
William, Henry IV Part One
Shakespeare,
William, Henry IV Part Two
Shakespeare,
William, Henry V
Shakespeare,
William, Henry VI Part One
Shakespeare,
William, The Merry Wives of Windsor
Shakespeare,
William, Troilus and Cressida
Smith,
Sarah Jane, “Irongron’s Star” in the July 1995
edition of Metropolitan Magazine (see also “Moving
On” by Peter Anghelides in Decalog 3: Consequences,
ed. Andy Lane and Justin Richards)
Stubbins,
Thomas, ed. Hugh Lofting, Doctor Dolittle and the Secret Lake
Tolkein,
J.R.R., The Hobbit
Tolkein,
J.R.R., The Lord of the Rings
White,
T.H., The Sword in the Stone
White,
T.H., The Once and Future King
Entries
for ‘Battle of the Herrings’, ‘Sir John
Falstaff’, ‘Sir John Falstolfe’ and
‘Mead’ in Encyclopaedia Britannica Deluxe CD 2000
Murder
on the Orient Express (tv movie, 2001)
Remarks by
‘bluelire-72 from The Background’ on 28/4/01 that no
longer appear to form part of the Entry for the 2001 version of
‘Murder on the Orient Express’ at The Internet Movie
Database (www.imdb.com)
Entries
for ‘Geoffrey Chaucer’, ‘Potato’, ‘Sir
Walter Raleigh’ and ‘Tobacco’ in Microsoft
Encarta ’97 Encyclopaedia
Test
Paper.
1)
Describe the role of the potato in the lives of the following:
a)
King Edward
b)
Granny Smith (famous amongst horticulturists for her pomme ne
pas de terre)
c)
Bodger and Badger
d)
Rowdy Maris Piper
2)
‘One potato, two potato, three potato, four.’ Set out
the role of vegetables in general in the teaching of numeracy
today.
3)
‘Chocolate’s a kind of potato’. Review possible
marketing strategies for McDonald’s restaurants in light of
this statement. (Be accurate)
4) What
did Raleigh’s cloak?
5) Have
you ever considered what the Irish pheasants ate before bread and
potatoes were available? (Be honest)
6) Which
of my sources is entirely fictitious?
7) Do not
attempt to solve the Irish Question but instead undertake an
experiment to prove the relationship between potatoes and poteen
(excepting candidates in countries where laws restrict the
practice of distilling).
8) Uncover
the hidden footnote subsequent to the main body of the article.
9) Was
Falstaff’s work as equerry to Prince Hal a Good Thing, or
should he have been given the Sack? (Be eloquent)
10)
Summarise the main points of King James I’s A
Counterblaste to Potatoes and propose some recipes acceptable
to his tastes.
11)* Spell
the word ‘Potato’.
12) Using
protractors if desired, illustrate with explanatory notes none of
the following:
a)
the relationships between Sontarans, Rutans, and root vegetables.
b)
the effect of warfare on the part of the Silastic Armorfiends of
Striterax upon the evolution of the Smash Martians.
c) The
Girl from Ipomoea.
*Candidates named Quayle should not attempt
this question.
[1]
It is true that there are some historical sources supporting the
orthodox Raleigh theory. However, since The Blackadder
Chronicles—possibly the least credible historical
document ever written—is one of these, there is much doubt
concerning their trustworthiness.
[2]
True, the spoken-word adaptation of Asterix in Britain as
read by Willie Rushton suggests that Asterix brought the potatoes
back from the Americas during the events of La grande
traversée. However, this theory merely supports the argument
that potatoes are found more widely than just in South America.
[3]
I hesitate to bring outlandish content such as the existence of
aliens into this serious historical study (Zozu the robot
notwithstanding); nevertheless, there is good evidence for the
existence of such beings, and an excellent introduction to the
people of Gallifrey may be found in history graduate J.T.
Kirk’s comments in Ishmael; it must be understood,
however, that the Doctor is decidedly atypical in his habits,
preferring to roam and interact with life rather than merely sit
at home and observe creation.
[4]
In re the anachronistic appearance of potatoes in Doctor Who,
The Completely Useless Encyclopaedia (published 1996)
states that “it is a popular misconception amongst fans that
the mistake appears in the televised version as well [as in the
novelisation by Dicks of The Time Warrior]. A cursory
viewing shows that this is not the case; presumably, the rumour
was put about by someone who felt that Doctor Who
didn’t already contain enough gaffes to poke fun at.
“In
fact, it wasn’t until the mid-eighties that the series
enjoyed its first unambiguous association with the popular root
vegetables, as Golden Wonder gave away miniature Doctor Who
comics with their crisps [....., the comics being reprinted from Doctor
Who Magazine] but with half the story missing in each case;
a bit like some BBC videos we could mention. [......] Although
come to think of it, ‘The Time Warrior’ is one of those
videos. Perhaps someone hacked out the line, ‘Hmmm, thanks
for these lovely chips, Sarah’, without our knowledge.”
According
to Doctor Who Magazine (in 2006), “On screen, the
roots or fruits that Sarah bundles into her sack aren't entirely
clear - we'll have to wait for a future DVD restoration to be
sure!”
[5]
Unfortunately, Montalo was prevented from formally explaining his
theories in a complete article by his tragic death: he is one of
only a few people within recent history to have died as a result
of an attack by a wolf-pack, and in fact it has been argued that
there is a suspicious quality to his passing, although a full
investigation by Hercule Poirot and his Sleuth Supreme
television show ruled out any foul play (whether there is a
familial relationship or not between the modern-day detective and
his more famous namesake is unclear; however, it seems
significant that BBCtv’s Crimewatch is presented by a
man calling himself Nick Ross).
[6]
All right, so you and I know that potatoes are easy to peel, but
then we know what they’re like, don’t we?
[7]
Another absurd claim is that Fastolfe was an old man even back in
his youth as a (slightly senior) companion of the future Henry V,
and that during those days he was known as Falstaff. Shakespeare
seems to have picked up on this from his own reading of the text:
he uses the name ‘Falstaff’ for his comic fatty loosely
based on Fastolfe in Henry IV Part One, Henry IV Part
Two, Henry V (in which Falstaff does not appear, but
dies off-stage) and The Merry Wives of Windsor, and also
in Henry VI Part One. It is modern critics who have
resurrected the name of Fastolfe for the character in the last of
these plays, and it is only Falstaff’s death (not originally
intended by Shakespeare to take place so early) that discourages
theatre-goers to think of Fastolfe and Falstaff as the same man.
There is also, we must admit, evidence that Shakespeare did
originally conflate Sir John Fastolfe with Sir John Oldcastle,
presumably because the latter figure was also one of Prince
Hal’s companions and because as a Lollard he would have had
appeal to a Protestant play-going audience; however, the comic
portrayal must have been considered inappropriate for a Christian
martyr, as fossil rhymes in the texts show that the name of
‘Oldcastle’ was dropped for ‘Falstaff’.
[8]
The Lord of the Rings: The Two Towers: Book IV: Chapter IV: Of
Herbs and Stewed Rabbit. Note that the accursed Gollum
refuses fish and chips; earlier in the story, he refuses food
produced by the Elves. The chip as ambrosia, or as the food that
can be touched only be the gods or those pure at heart, is an
interesting trope, although there is no time to discuss it here:
we may briefly note that in The Twelve Tasks of Asterix
the chip is the invention of the Olympian gods’ own chef.
[9]
C.f. Astérix chez les Belges, early on in which there are
potato-like objects surrounding a roast; then, later on (at least
in the English translation) a Belgian discards the idea of eating
chipped and fried root vegetables with mussels (moules-frites,
typically Belgian) for eating them with fish (typically British).
[10] The Lord of the Rings:
The Fellowship of the Ring: Book I: Chapter I: A Long Expected
Party.
[11]
The Lord of the Rings: Prologue: Part Two.
[12]
Ibid.
[13] For that matter, the fact
that tobacco was introduced into North America by the Maya might
suggest that the related potato might also have been known to the
Amerindians, in which case Asterix could indeed have encountered
them during his great crossing.
[14] [...T]he devil luxury,
with his fat rump and potato-finger [.........] Fry [....]
fry!” Troilus and Cressida V.ii.
[15] Another helpful footnote
from history preserved in the histories of the Blackadder family.
[16] 1066 and All That
(see also the same authors’ Garden Rubbish for
advice on tackling potato fly).
[17] Curiously, in my edition
the copyright page—which presumably names the English
translator—has been torn out.